PROTEST'S

The war in Southeast Asia set off a worldwide firestorm of controversy at every level of society. Governments, religious leaders, anti-war factions, and soldiers themselves took to the streets to join the chorus of an angry world. Governments fought a two front war, one on the battlefield and one within the confines of their respective countries. The outcries took form in every imaginable scenario from mass riots and destruction of government symbols to music festivals and draft card burning. Anti this and anti that overflowed every aspect of life but the world stopped and took notice the day a relatively unknown Buddhist Monk performed self-immolation. His name was Thich Quang Duc and on June 11,1963 he soaked himself in gasoline and lit himself on fire at a busy Saigon intersection in protest.

Buddhist Monk uses self-immolation to protest religious persecution.

Buddhism was introduced to Vietnam from China in the second century. During the French control of Vietnam Buddhism faced restrictions as the French tried to spread Catholisism. In 1951 Vietnamese Buddhists formed the General Association of Buddhists to recognize and fight for their religious beliefs. By the mid-sixties only three million Vietnamese were outright Buddhist's while the majority of the population were secretly practicing their religion. It is estimated that fifteen million Vietnamese, 80% of the population, hid their religious beliefs in fear of reprisals. 

President Diem of South Vietnam was raised a Catholic and almost all of his government appointee's were Catholic as well. Diem refused to abolish anti Buddhist laws left over from French occupation. On May 8, 1963 at a gathering of Buddhist's in Hue celebrating Buddha's birthday were dispersed and nine people were killed by police. A delegation went to Diem demanding a stop to religious persecution but were turned away blaming the Communists for the incident. On June 11th the first self-immolation occurred. Busdhist Monks continued to lead protests in Hue citing the United States as an accomplish to the persecution. In May 1966 ten monks and nuns set themselves on fire in protest forcing Washington to take a stand. The movement soon died as the war escalated and attention was focused on other matters.

Religion, politics, social, and economical issues plagued Vietnam throughout the war as growing opposition was building. The anti-war movement was gaining strength and consisted of independent interest groups uniting in opposition to the war. The movement started in 1965, peaked in 1968, and remained powerful until the end of the war. It was fueled by events like the My Lai massacre, the shootings at Kent State University, and the loss of 5,000 Allied Forces in one month of fighting during the Tet Offensive. The anti-war movement exposed a deep schism in American society and no where was it more evident than with the young men in America between the ages of 18 and 26.

Young men burn their draft cards and refuse to enter the military.

After the death of President Kennedy America was moving closer to war and President Johnson inherited the legacy of growing unrest. It was then that he began to build his army. Fueling the war machine at its peak America would produce 400,000 fighting men a month. In 1965 Johnson decided to rely on the draft to fill his needs rather than the National Guard for manpower. 26.8 million Baby Boomer males would reach draft age between 1964 and 1973 making it the largest manpower pool in history of the world. 8.7 million men and women served between those years, 2.7 in Vietnam. 

Anti-war rally at the steps of the Lincoln Memorial draws tens of thousands to Washington.

The draft relied on a lottery system of days of the year being randomly drawn and men whose birthdays fell on those days were drafted first. As the days progressed and more were drawn the less likely a man was to be drafted. The men that were drafted reported to the draft board for determination of eligibility and given a physical. The physically unfit, the sick, and the ones with a government sanctioned deferments were sent home. Deferments ranged from students in college to agricultural farm workers and even cheese makers in Wisconsin were defered. The random selection of men and the deferment categories added to the growing unrest of the ant-war movement. 

Jane Fonda (Hanoi Jane) with Secretary of State John Kerry speak to Vietnam Veterans.

The reaction of drafted men threw the government on it's heels and kept the justice department busy for almost two decades. By the end of the war the statistics were staggering.

STATISTICS 1964-1972

7,400 draft dodgers convicted

5,700 cases pending

39,000 referred to Justice Department

495,689 cases of desertion

450,000 less-than-honorable discharge

40,000 exiles left the country

Vietnam Veterans Against the War march in protest.

Anti-war demonstrators occupied every government facility in America from Capital Hill to the local Selective Service office and protests took place dailey. If you weren't with them you were against them and at times the situations got ugly as the youth of America insisted on being heard. Caught in the middle of this schism was the Vietnam Veteran. The returning soldier unaware and unprepared for the descent lying in wait turned inward and was pushed underground for decades. Not since the great Civil War had America been so divided. The government having its hands full with every aspect of governing was literally falling apart from within and incapable of support for these returning soldiers. 

I walked with crutches and a slow mythodical gate out the exits closest to the street so I could meet my ride. Almost eight months had passed and I was leaving the hospital for the first time broken and I longed for the smell of fresh air. The medicinal smell of the overcrowded wards was in my clothes and hair and following me like a cloud. The aroma of New York City traffic exhaust was inviting so I closed my eyes and took in as much as my lungs could handle. It was the smell of freedom and the smell of something familiar. I left for Vietnam breathing this same smoggy stagnant air and now I had returned, beat up but alive.

Proud to be an American fighting man I wore my uniform and hobbled my slow and steady pace until I reached the gates. A crowd of protestors spotted me and pounced. Being trained in the art of surprise I know an ambush when I see one and this was an ambush that I thought I left behind in enemy territory. Perhaps it wasn't left behind and perhaps I'm still in enemy territory I thought.

Viciously attacking me with the most vile array of insults imaginable they got as close as they could and spit. Baby killer, murderer, and butcher were thrown at me repeatedly as I met my ride and drove off. At first I didn't understand the entire episode or the level of anger and rage shown. For that matter who were these people and why were they allowed to act this way. I was a formidable kid growing up and never backed down from a fight but respected others and their boundaries. I didn't understand what was happening to me and for years to come I wrestled with these very issues.

The Vietnam Veteran was the symbol for everything America hated at the time. War, government, and any symbol of the establishment were the focal points of the anti-war movement and they carried it with a passion. Senario's like this one played out across America leaving the returning soldier to go underground. There came a point when I was ashamed to be a veteran and only associated with other veterans, if at all. I did understand the movement but I didn't understand the way it was handled and I tried to understand their feelings but those same feelings were not reciprocated. We as a generation of fighting men became isolated and went underground. Those feelings of isolation and loneliness stayed with many veterans for the remainder of their lives.

Hue City and the Citadel will remain with me always and the people I met are a testament to the human spirit. Not letting go but at the same time living in the moment I'm comfortable knowing the people of Hue are moving forward.

Traveling on the original Highway 1, a highly contested route during the war, I'm heading south from Hue hugging the coastline and The South China Sea. The long bus ride gives me time to reflect on the sights and sounds of central Vietnam. Mountains turn to beaches as I pass through Da Nang a booming seaside city. The Port of Da Nang is one one of the wealthiest areas of Vietnam. Renounded  for its beaches it also boasts as being one of the centers for banking and finance in the country. This once haven for American military units it's roll during the war was vital. Attacks on Da Nang were simultaneous with Hue and it suffered many losses. 

My first stop southbound is the beachfront community of Hoi An. This quaint town is a backpackers haven for beaches and the fun and games associated with it. Particular who enters their town I have to buy a pass to just enter and walk around. It's a kind of Hoi An Visa and it cost 120,000 Dong or about $6 American and I must carry it at all times.

Selfie on the bus ride heading south.

Where the mountains meet the sea, I took this picture from my window seat.

Rest Area Vietnam style. The bunker was built by the French and used by the Japanese to guard the coastline. There are numerous ones dotting the coastline.

View of the South China Sea.

Da Nang Beach from the road.

Da Nang Beach

The City of Da Nang crossing the harbor.

On long bus rides I get to reflect and try to absorb

Some of the sights and sounds of Central Vietnam.

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