CAM RAHN BAY

Located in Khanh Hoa Province just south of Nha Trang, Cam Rahn Bay was a naturally protected harbor and an important way station for navigators since the days of Marco Polo. It's inner and outer harbor make it as unique a harbor as any in the world. Many believe it to be as beautiful as it is strategic both in peacetime and during war. It's modern military history goes back to 1905 when Russian fleets stopped there for resupply on their way around the world only to be defeated by the Japanese. Later in WWII, during the ocupation of Indo-China, the Japanese controlled the harbor using it to supply their invasion of the Malay Pennisula. During the Vietnam War the United States turned the port into a major supply depit. Less than two hundred miles from Saigon Cam Rahn Bay was a strategic Port of Call for the Allied Forces.

During the mid-sixties the United States war machine was gaining strength in a massive buildup along the South China Sea. The Port of Saigon was the only modern facility in South Vietnam and inandated with cargo as the need for another deep water port grew increasingly important. As military action increased in the central war zones support was needed to protect these ground forces. In May 1965 the First Logistical Command established a defense in Cam Rahn for the Allied Troops. By the following month the Army Corp of Engineers began building roads, warehouses, fuel tanks, and larger cargo handling facilities. A new pier capable of handling six large cargo vessals simultaneously was constructed along with an airfield housing the U.S. Air Force 11th Tactical Fighter Wing and 483rd Tactical Air Wing. 

Security of this massive complex was given to The Republic of South Korea's 9th Infantry Division. It was considered so safe that President Johnson visited twice during his administration and yet during the 1969 Tet Offensive the Viet Cong breached the complex. Two Americans were killed and 98 wounded as the invasion was repelled. Cam Rahn Bay remained secure until the end of the war and it fell to the Communists in 1975. After a piece agreement was signed in 1978 the port and complex the Americans had built became a naval base for the Soviet Union. 

Cam Rahn Bay's complex also boasted a logistical hospital capable of treating and rehabilitating soldiers with minor wounds and returning to active duty. Soldiers recuperated on white sand beaches along with hundreds of military personnel. Vintage Southern California style photos appeared with surfers and beach parties reminiscent of back home. Requests for this duty station came from every branch of service and for every available job. Getting a duty station in Cam Rahn Bay was good and as far from the horror of war as you could get while still being in a war zone.

A natural barrier protects inner and outer harbors as Cam Rahn Bay's piers handle six cargo ships simultaneously as smaller vessals traversed the inner waterways.

President Johnson greets soldiers during one of his two trips to Cam Rahn Bay accompanied by General Westmoreland.

In uniform or out the beaches of the South China Sea were beautiful. Sun bathing and 

surfing was a favorite pastime.

It appears as though these surfers are ordering lunch and cocktails. 

The war was not hard on everyone.

Besides the white sand beaches Cam Rahn Bay manned night club style bars for its soldiers.

Joe Oddo, a Bay Shore High School classmate, recuperates in one of the bars. Joe boy as he was known was wounded twice and sent to Cam Rahn Bay for rehabilitation. Fighting in Pleiku on the Vietnam Cambodian border he received both Silver and Bronze Star's for heroism.

Joe Boy wrote this letter to his girlfriend which accompanied the photograph.

Kathy, 15 Feb 69

Cam Rahn Bay

"Hello honey how are you. Here I am with Steve at the club they have for the patients here. We borrow the clothes from this guy. Steve is still sick he is in the bad stage yet of Malaria but we had to go out and celebrate us being together here. I'm fine and miss you."

Joe Boy and Steve borrowed civilian clothes to feel more like themselves. It was the little things that kept us going through hard times and that thin thread of reality reminded us of home. The thought of home sometimes felt just as surreal as the the world we found ourselves in but it was all we knew. Home was the goal we all strived for and just a simple tangible object like civilian clothes could be the perfect reminder that kept us sane, it was a god-sent.

The foot soldier was the backbone of the military. All facets of the military are important but the grunt, as we were refered to, was a different species. Left to our own devices we survived by improvising. A warm beer and a muddy river lined with sandbag bunkers was a treasured event even when the beer was dropped from a helicopter. As long as the Vietcong were not shooting at us we were fine and the beer, well the beer was a bonus. This was our Cam Rahn Bay.

I took this picture of Peter and Dave relaxing while someone else keeps an eye on things.

Late spring was upon us and the Tet Offensive was winding down to the occasional hit and run skirmish and for some unknown reason the beer kept coming this fine spring day. We had been living in the mangrove swamps of the Mekong Delta for some time now working our daily missions. The only time we came out of the bush was to jump on a helicopter for a ride to another firefight but today was different. For some unknown reason today the beers kept coming along with word of a major move and a three day rest. We never get a three day rest so something big was in the works. Beer and rest sounded awesome we thought and what could be worse then our lives now so bring it on.

Cam Rahn Bay may have had its white sand beaches, surfing, and night clubs but we had the BMB. 

BMB was short for Brigade Main Base. The name was later changed to Camp Frenzell-Jones in honor of the first two casualties in our unit. BMB was a 1,200 acre complex at the northern end of Long Binh and sits on Highway 1-A which leads into Saigon. The Brigade complex includes a PX (post exchange), Post Office, nightclub, air conditioned library and housing for all the officers including the General. As part of Long Binh Complex it was the center for all command in South Vietnam. 

As the beer flowed our minds relaxed but our energy peaked. We were trained in the roughest environment possible and so our fun and games were just as rough. Breaking in a new machete became one of our favorite pastimes. Each of us would swing with all our strength and try to drive it through a coconut, the deepest penetration was the victor. I took my turn as the beer continued to flow and the day took on a life of its own.

Occasionally we would get a package from home and mine were always filled with pepperoni and salami's but my most treasured gift were cigars. I would always get a variety of the most aromatic cigars money could buy. The smell alone would give our position away so I couldn't smoke them on missions. When the chopper dropped beer and packages off all on the same day it was party time. Imagination and self entertainment was a necessity for the foot soldier. I broke into the supply shack and stole a case of duct tape and wrapped coconuts for Bacci Balls. Here I am drinking a beer, smoking a cigar, and playing Bocci Ball with coconuts, what more could a man ask for. The game of Bacci usually ends in an argument. There is always a difference of opinion which Bacci Ball is closer to what other ball but not in Vietnam. Here there was no need to argue amongst ourselves because everyone carried a gun and controversy was not an option.

We continued to enjoy our down time waiting for the choppers to pick us up for our three day rest.

Stench would have been a good word to describe us as we entered the compound looking more like war dogs than anyone could imagine. We were living in rice paddy mud and mangrove swamps and hadn't taken a shower or had a hot meal in a month. After relieving us of our clothes and gear we were then asked to surrender our weapons. This was our first problem. We gave up our larger heavier machine guns for convience but refused to hand over our M-16's. Perhaps it was the cleanly pressed and spit shined new-guy private that was asking us that caused our hesitation but we refused. He was to scared to argue so command sent a senior officer to deal with us.

We weren't allowed to go anywhere or do anything until we took a shower in the enlisted men's barracks. We couldn't believe this complex was located in a war zone or even part of the war. It had a country club atmosphere. If it weren't for the bombs going off in the distance this compound could have been Hometown USA. It never crossed my mind and it was unnerving to think that the war was run from this country club called BMB.

There were two options for dinner, restaurant if you had money or cafeteria if you didn't so cafeteria it was which created incident number two. Eating eggs out of a can for so long was all I knew so I was taken back when I saw what appeared to be real food. We sat alone and ate everything in site creating somewhat of a scene. No one would dare come near us which was probably was for the best. Our reputation as the bad boys of Delta preceded our visit and it was obvious no one wanted anything to do with us.

Incident number three arose when we were rejected from the nightclub. Officers were the only ones  allowed in the club and the enlisted men, which was us, had to drink in the bar without entertainment. After a few hours of making a scene our unit left and walked back to our tents but Peter and I broke away from the unit with our own plans. We practiced our military training and performed our own search and destroy mission. Locating the supply depot we broke in and stole tear gas canisters and headed for the Officers Barracks. Spotting the guards and timing their security tour around the compound we jammed the front and back doors shut but first we threw several canisters of tear gas canisters in. Watching from a safe distance the officers scream in anguish trying to escape through the jammed doors. They finally broke them down as several jumped out the screened windows. We walked back to our unit as the base went on alert. It was the end of day one.

Incident number four started day two in this makeshift Americana surrounded by the surreal world of death and destruction. After breakfast we decided to explore this vast complex known as Long Binh and went for an extended walk. The scenery became more and more bizarre as we approached what appeared to be a house with a very large swimming pool. Inquiring as to the occupants we realized it was for the General. What we couldn't understand was how certain parts of our military lived as if they were back home and we, as it's backbone, couldn't shower for a month. It wasn't just the high ranking officers living the high life in Long Binh but enlisted men as well. Without hesitation we broke in and went for a swim. Usually the water we swam in was muddy and infested with leaches and snakes so this was a treat for us but the final straw for command. We had broken every rule, rudely insulted everyone, drank and ate to excess, put the base on high alert, and broke into the Generals house and it was only day two. BMB had enough of Delta and we never saw day three. We were ordered to report for deployment for our new mission to the Vietnam Cambodian border for special search and destroy missions into Cambodia. Helicopters would pick us up at 0600 hours (6:00 AM) in full gear carrying extra munitions and meals. I just knew in my heart this was going to be a rough mission.

The Generals pool was crystal clear and a welcome break from war, take that Cam Rahn Bay.

My stay in Hoi An was a throwback to an earlier place and time. This quaint seaside town brought back memories of the days when American soldiers roamed the beaches of The South China Sea to get a break from the reality of war. Today the shores are busy with tourists from all over the world. I walked the back streets and tried to get a feel for the people and imagine how the locals and the invading foreigners interacted during the war. From their smiling faces and aggressive hard sell tactics it's obvious life hasn't changed much for the people of Hoi An and this seaside community.

French style buildings line the Main Street.

Residents of Hoi An do things the old fashion way, they work at it.

If you don't go to the shop the shop comes to you.

Don't feel like walking.

Deliveries are made on scooters.

Pushcarts contain every imaginable delight.

Since the days of old their system of transport remains the same.

Once these boats transported weapons and munitions, today they carry tourists.

This lady sells cigarettes, rents bikes and scooters, and takes in laundry. If you leave your dirty cloths by the afternoon it's ready in the morning.

Selphie on China Beach. My first time touching The South China Sea.

Sunset on The South China Sea.

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