Tuesday, September 16, 2014

VIETNAM


While Germany is devastating all of Europe France is in no position to maintain control over Sourheast Asia and Japan seizing the opportunity stakes it's claim to everything from the Malay peninsula to the border of China. Japan remained in control until the end of WWII and eventually had no choice but to concede pocession under the surrender agreement. During the vacancy of authority Ho Chi Minh, traveling between France, China, and Hanoi, gains control of a free zone in the mountainous region in the north and forms the Indo-Chinese Communist Party (ICP). In a surprise military maneuver he marches into Hanoi in September 1944 and occupies key locations declaring a new government and a new country, The Democratic Republic of Vietnam (DRV).


This propaganda leaflet, on exhibition in THE ART OF WAR exhibit, advertises a strong and fearless leader. All propaganda has an agenda and this leaflet shows a young and steadfast Ho Chi Minh in 1967. The truth of the matter in 1967 he was old and frail and later died in 1969.


Although Ho Chi Minh was a brilliant statesman and leader he was up against all odds as the Potsdam Agreement is implemented. According to the agreement, post WWII, British troops would occupy territory south of the 16th parallel and Chinese troops would occupy the north and each would repatriotise Japanese detanees. At the same time France sent troops back into the region to restore French rule adding to the chaos. 

Ho Chi Minh in a dire situation travelled back to France to negotiate a deal to retain control of Vietnam but in his absence a new problem arose. China occupying north of the 16th parallel and France occupying territory in China came to an agreement. China would withdraw from Vietnam and France would withdraw from Chinese territories thus allowing France to control Vietnam. This is all done totally ignoring Ho Chi Minh and the Viet Minh government he has established. When France insists the Viet Minh dissolve and Ho Chi Minh step down as leader of Vietnam fighting breaks out. France takes control of Hai Phong Harbor in 1946 and moves tanks and troops into Hanoi. For the next eights years the war goes back and forth as Ho Chi Minh runs the Viet Minh government from exile in the north. On May 8, 1954 a war weary France gives up and Norrh Vietnam is united under Ho Chi Minh's control and the future of Vietnam lies in the hands of the Geneva Conference.

The Geneva Conference agreements referred to as the Geneva Accords officially brought the Indo-China War to an end and brought forth new boundaries and a host of new problems. U.S. Secretary of State John Foster Dulles didn't believe Washington could approve of any agreeable outcome left the negotiations. The U.S. delegation was now headed by Under Secretary of State Walter Bedell Smith. Smith was under orders from Secretary of State Dulles which in turn was under orders from the president of the U.S. Dulles was correct in his assumption as separate peace agreements for Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos were signed by France along with declarations from other governments. Laos and Cambodia, who sided with the French, were left in control of their own countries. Vietnam however was to be temporarily split along the 17th parallel. The north would be governed by the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (DRV), Ho Chi Minh and the Viet Minh party, and the south by a French Union until 1956 when elections would be held. At this time France was out of the picture and the two halves of Vietnam were to be reunited as one under a new freely elected government. To say the least Washington was not happy with the Geneva Accords.   

The elections never took place as Vietnam remained a divided country. Ho Chi Mihn controlled the Viet Minh government in the north and an American puppet government with President Diem at the helm was in the south. Between 1956 and 1960 the U.S. began funding the pro-American South Vietnamese government. Less than 2% of U.S. aid to Saigon went to reform and opposition was growing to the new government. Kennedy having second thoughts about the newly established puppet regimen sent Special Forces and Vice-President Johnson to evaluate the situation. In May 1961, less than a week after Johnson's return Kennedy increased the size of the South Vietnamese army by 100,000 men. Poorly trained and inadequate to defend themselves Kennedy also dramatically increased U.S. military presence in South Vietnam.

Growing tensions in the government increased as Henry Cabot Lodge in cooperation with the CIA learned of a pending coup. At the end of August 1963 Washington assured the Generals leading the overthrow of its support as Kennedy publicly criticized the new government. Washington cut off finances and on November 1, 1963 a coup, that was both swift and accurate, murdered Diem the leader and his staff. His death began a period of political instability that would last a decade. Washington under President Kennedy had sanctioned a murderous coup and thrust America into it's longest war to date.

  
Ho Chi Minh was the leader of Democratic Republic of Vietnam (DRV) from 1945 to his death in 1969. As a young man he travelled to the United States and it was then that he developed an interest in political rights outlined in the Declaration of Independece and the Constitution. When WWI erupted Ho Chi Minh moved to Paris and it was there that he accepted Marxist Leninism. In 1923 and 1924 he studied in Moscow and received formal theoretical and revolutionary training. In late 1924 Ho Chi Minh travelled to China for two years and organized what was the first Vietnamese Communist Party. His writings attempted to unite political and social issues for the ultimate liberation of Vietnam. Ho Chi Minh (the bringer of light) remained steadfast in his beliefs to see Vietnam reunited and refused to discuss any settlement with the United States that did not recognize this objective. He was a skillful statesman and leader and adopted revolutionary strategies with propaganda to defeat his enemies. Regrettably Ho Chi Minh, Uncle Ho as he was affectionately called, died before he ever saw his beloved Vietnam united.

On display in THE ART OF WAR exhibition, Ho Chi MINH (Uncle Ho)
appears fatherly in this propaganda portrait.


For 45 years I've though about this day and now it has arrived. My nerves were on edge, my stomache was in a knot, and my mind was racing with thoughts of a devastated city in ruins. When the wheels touched down the irreversible feeling of no turning back overwhelmed me. I was in Hanoi.

She took longer than most to examine my documents as I waited at the immigration window or was that in my mind. They knew who I was and my participation in the war I thought as my feelings got the best of me. I come in peace I wanted to say but then she handed me my passport and waved me through with a smile and a nod. Welcome to Hanoi.

My first step on Vietnam soil in over 45 years.

It was evening when I arrived downtown so I checked into a hotel and walked to the central area half expecting to see the ruins of a burnt out city. Hanoi was a buitiful hustle bustle city of tourists and locals going about their evening chores or just strolling in the park relaxing like any other large city in the world. My first impressions were of an old world charm of culture and grace. I was impressed.


In the park I met a gentlemen my age with the biggest smile ever. Without hesitation he came up behind me and welcomed me and shared my first selphie. Welcome friend.


From the first moment I stepped off the plane I could feel the pride in the Vietnamese people. Unlike the previous countries of Southeast Asia they carried themselves with pride and dignity and they had an unmistakable friendly aire about them that said we are proud to be Vietnam. In the center of town were statues, parks, and a lake surrounding the unmistakable statement to the world, "GO NAM".


My first stop was "The Old Quarter". This was the older part of town which survived the relentless onslaught of bombing during the war. The markets were full and the usual bartering and haggling of venders simply meant everything was ok, it was all good.


The Old Quarter is a backpackers haven for the youth of the world to meet and exchange ideas as they solve the problems of the world. Hanoi boasts the cheapest beer in the world at 25 cents a draught. Restaurants and bars are packed with tourists overflowing into the streets. I ate at 
"Little Hanoi", one of the most famous restaurants in the old part of the city. Aubertene, a grilled eggplant and garlic sauce, with a side of stir frey veggies Vietnamese style was my choice accompanied by a few beers. I've yet to have Pho, fish head soup, my favorite.

The youth of the world meet in Hanoi.

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1 comment:

  1. You made it! What anticipation! Can you explain what you were expecting and the difference in what you found. What is the breakdown of tourists, are there many Americans? There seem to be quite a few backpackers are they all young people? Did you always like Vietnamese food? We miss you hope to see you soon. Xo

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