Thursday, October 31, 2013

CHACO CANYON

Chaco Canyon located in the Northwest tip of NM is a high desert landscape with long winters, a short growing season, and little rainfall. Despite these harsh conditions in 800 AD a Pueblo people built an immense culture scratched from this sparse landscape. This valley was the center of the Pueblo world. Architecture, commerce, a complex social life are all evident here. Yet with all their achievements they suddenly abandoned their great civilization and disappeared. Something had terribly gone wrong. 

I left The Aztec Ruins and headed south further into NM and arrived at Chaco Canyon after dark. My first impression was one of a quiet hesitation. I proceeded into the canyon slowly. I had to take a 20 mile dirt road full of bumps, holes, and mini dust storms. The wind was blowing hard and my top speed was 10 mph. I thought it odd that such a celebrated area would welcome guests in such a manner. Or perhaps outsiders were not as welcome as I would have like. Were they telling us something I thought. Suddenly right in the middle of this dark, bumpy, dusty dirt road was a large object laying in the road. It was a dead horse. I couldn't believe my eyes, now there's something you don't see every day I thought. I was ready to turn around but I had no place to go, so on I went and set up camp in the dark. 

The next morning we checked in and headed further in the canyon to the ruins. The entrance is guarded by a massive Mesa called Fajada Butte towering above the ruins. It rises 6623 ft and watches over the entire canyon. It's intimidating and this feeling of intimidation stayed with me throughout the day. 

I entered the largest of the compounds Pueblo Bonoto containing over 600 rooms. I was amazed by its size and felt rather small in its structure. In fact I felt uneasy about the entire experience, as though I was intruding into a sacred place. When I thought about it I was. Usually when I visit a place I take a rock or stick as a keepsake and Pueblo Bonito was no exception. Except this time I put it back. I felt a sacred reverence toward this site and frankly down right intimidated. Something bad happened here and I wanted no part of it. 
Lower walls
Higher walls
Kiva's, religious and ceremonial sites.
Inside the rooms which connect to other rooms.


1,200 year old timbers used as girders to hold up floors as high as 6 stories.
Built at the foot of the canyon wall
Archeologists excavate the ruins as I explore. This is an ongoing dig site.


The Great Wall of Pueblo Bonito came close to being crushed when part of the canyon wall collapsed.

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