CHIANG MAI

Northern Thailand is a lush mountainous region known for its natural beauty. It was here that ancient cultures built their religious and cultural centers. Relatively close to Burma, Laos , and Southwestern China it was a mecca for cultural exchanges and the seat of the ancient kingdom of Lanna Thai (Million Thai Rice Fields). In the center of it all is the ancient city of Chiang Mai.

Architecture 101 begins by designing a facility geometrically square so as not to confuse the pupil and Old Chiang Mai was just that, a square city. To add to the simplicity of a square city the original architects built a square wall and moat around the square city. Their theory of this ancient 700 year old medieval wall was for protection against Burmese invaders. The simplicity of Chiang Mai's outer appearance ends there, internally it's a treasure trove of historic holy temples that exhibit northern Thai architecture and culture.

Strategically northern Thailand is an interesting area as related to the Vietnam War. A stones throw from Myanmar (Burma), Laos, and China it was a place of interest for all parties involved. Burma politically neutral, China Communist, and Laos divided gave the allied forces reason to patroll northern Thailand with a vigilant eye. Western Laos still under Royal Government control up to the Mekong River fought Communist occupied territories east of the Mekong and conducted a simultaneous civil war along side it's ally Vietnam.  

This 700 year old wall surrounds the old city against invaders, architecturally a formidable masterpiece but it pails in comparison to the treasures that lie within. Although I was raised Catholic I'm closer to Buddhism in theory and the spiritual experience was everything I hoped it would be.

To accommodate the 21st century Chaing Mai built modern facilities outside the old city. Here you see public transportation on the right and shops on the left.

Attacking the city was a task and that's probably why the ancient city has stood the test of time. The invading army had to cross the moat while arrows and debris rained down on their heads. They then had to climb a vertical wall while looking up into the eyes of their enemy. I would have given up and taken in the scenery. 

Working your way through the high mountainous regions of northern Thailand is a full days work. It was a good thing soldiers were not paid by the hour.

Nestled in the quiet retreat of chanting and fragrant aromas my squad took a respite from the anxieties of war. Working the rubber plantations during the early Monsoon season we swept through the plantation being careful not to disturb any trees. It was a French owned boasting a European style house and motorcar resembling Gatsby on a much smaller scale. Out of place yet in place was this eclectic scene of plantation life, grass huts, and the war with a touch of suburban cowboys drenched from the rain.

After spending the day chasing the Vietcong through the rubber plantation we emerged to this bizarre scene of old world Europe. The main house, servants house, and barn were all beautifully preserved and untouched by the war. I took this picture crossing the plantation and getting ready to set up for the night.



We were told not to touch the rubber trees in any way or we would get a fine. The trees were the property of the French and not part of the war. If only the Vietcong understood semantics as well as we did then perhaps they wouldn't run into the plantations to hide. We bedded down for the night outside a small village.

When the temperature is 100 plus degrees and the Monsoons hit the temperature can drop 30 degrees in an instant. It was now 80 degrees we were shivering from the cold. Our blood was thin and our bodies were tired causing uncontrollable shakes as we tried to rest. The plantations are large and it was a long day playing peekaboo and hide and seek with the Vietcong. We hit sporadic gunfire throughout the day but nothing substantial. Out of nowhere a Buddhist Monk appeared slowly approaching us and speaking Vietnamese. Communication in either direction was nil so as a peace offering he offered us crackers and tea.

The next forty-eight hours were the most peaceful of my life. In the comfort of his temple-home we slept peacefully as soft chanting, almost lazy breeze-like sounds, lulled us to sleep. Perhaps it was the war or my boyish homesick innocence that influenced my lack of fear but I was drawn into a state of mind I still yearn for.

The meditative state of mind I was in has haunted me throughout my life and every once in awhile I catch a glimpse of it. The National Cathedral, Chaco Canyon, the Great Kiva of the Aztec Ruins, and even the Grand Canyon come close but none can compare to those rainy two days of isolation and peace.

 Chaing Mai relentlessly grabs your attention as you stare in awe at the intricacies of northern Thai architecture. Buddhism, the primary religion, is more of a way of life than a sectarian belief. Intricate carved gables and colorful mosaics adorn the exteriors of almost everything. The Singha Lions are fierce creatures that guard the entrances of many temples but allow passage into a world of peace and tranquility. Towering pagodas, usually octagonal shaped, called Chedi rise over many of the Thai buildings.


Below are just a few examples of a confluence of cultures in a strategic area of Thailand during the Vietnam War. Relatively few American soldiers experienced the cultural diversity of Chaing Mai and  it's treasures of Buddhist Temples.

Buddhist Monks walk freely amongst the guests, inviting
and cordial, they remind me of a peaceful moment in time
I had during the war.

Examples of Singha Lions and Chedi architecture

As any diverse culture would have it Chaing Mai boasts the first Presbyterian Church in this part of the world. Founded by the Laos Mission in 1867 it was a mission run by Rev. Daniel McGilvary and his wife

Chaing Mai's marketplace has whatever your looking for.

Tourism is a mainstay for Chaing Mai.

Old and new worlds come together in CHIANG Mai as Thailand's second largest city in the mountainous region of the north. Once a crossroad for traders it became the largest opium producer in Southeast  Asia. Known as the Golden Triangle it's opium producing leaders gave back to the community most of the profits to build a community rich in culture. 

Overlooking the city Buddhist temples teach young students a life of fasting and abstinence in a world full of temptations. Offerings are made to the monks daily by the people of Chiang Mai to maintain their life in a world surrounded by the sins of a modern world.

I was privileged to meditate with the students as the elderly monks chanted in a serene ceremony of offerings as they learn about their world. I sat in awe and watched the lighting of candles and the repeated bowing in unison. A string was tied around my wrist to signify my participation. The outer world dissipated in a quiet surreal atmosphere as I sat in a translike state of peace. Enlightened by the ceremony I left this mountaintop retreat in peace.

Selfie before entering the temple.

The ornate workmanship is outstanding. When I was here last a lot of the buildings were in ruins.